Melasma goes by many names. Age spots, sun spots, liver spots (ick), hyperpigmentation. Most of the pigment changes that occur in women are called melasma, and are a result of the combination of hormones and sun exposure.
Studies show that pigment changes may affect your perceived age more than the presence of wrinkles. Clear skin is associated with youth and health, and melasma can be quite detrimental to your self confidence. Unfortunately, there is no cure for melasma, but it can be managed with an individualized treatment plan.
The most important thing you can do to prevent and manage melasma is consistent use of quality skin care products, specifically SPF and retinol. Since melasma is due to sun exposure, protecting yourself from UV rays helps prevent its progression. SPF must include both chemical (octinoxate) and barrier sunscreens (zinc oxide), because UVA is not blocked by barrier sunscreen.
Choosing a sunscreen can be confusing, but choosing a retinol is downright overwhelming. It’s definitely a buzzword in modern commercial skincare, and it’s often expensive, but how do you know if it’s the right product for you? Retinol is vitamin A, an acid which gets into the deeper layers of skin. It increases the rate of cellular turnover, and heals damaged DNA in your skin cells, so not only is it the gold standard for treatment of melasma, acne, wrinkles, and signs of aging, but it’s also preventative for skin cancer. In my mind, everyone should be using retinol for this reason alone.
Retinol can be irritating to skin that’s not accustomed to it, so I suggest starting twice a week, and increasing as your skin tolerates, to nightly, if possible.
Other skin care products that help manage melasma are topical vitamin C, and hydroquinone, a bleaching agent. I offer great products for treating melasma at Relevé: a single product that includes retinol, vitamin C, and vitamin E (to soothe irritation) for $100; and a set of four pigment lifting products for more aggressive treatment of melasma for $400.
If you would like to get rid of pigment that has already made its home, a series of chemical peels are very effective. I recommend planning for a series of three peels, one a month for three months, in the fall. You must stay out of the sun for seven days, so summer is not the best time to do them, but you certainly still can. I charge $300 per peel.
Other treatments for melasma include laser treatments and deeper peels. I don’t offer these services at Relevé, but I can refer you to a medspa that does.
Melasma is annoying, but can be managed. Book a free consult so I can help you design a treatment plan tailored to your skin and budget.